Travel to Plakados

Plakados is located about 24 km from Mytilene, nestled between olive groves and seasonal streams that descend from the ravine of Manna. A small river lined with cypress trees flows beside the village before joining other waterways on its way toward the gulf.

Two traditional entrances mark the settlement: one via an old stone bridge and cobbled path, the other by the paved road that leads to the small square near the church. Compact and walkable, Plakados is best experienced slowly, on foot.

History, culture, and everyday life

There are two prevailing interpretations of the village name. One traces it to a marble plaque, plaka, reportedly found in the original church of Saint Vlasios. The other connects it to the flat stone slabs or geological shelf on which the village stands, overlooking the gulf. Both explanations reflect the strong relationship between place, material, and memory.

Unlike nearby Pappados, known for its neoclassical mansions, Plakados represents a more modest yet deeply authentic Lesvian rural architectural type.

The houses are stone-built, often left unplastered or painted in earthy tones that blend with the landscape. Traditional wooden bay windows, known locally as sachnisi, were designed to capture the sea breeze and extend living space outward. Narrow lanes and stone-paved paths shape the settlement, creating an intimate and cohesive urban fabric.

At the heart of the village lies a small square shaded by a perennial plane tree and anchored by a historic fountain. The microclimate here is noticeably cooler during summer months, a detail long appreciated by locals who gather in its shade.

The architectural and symbolic center of the village is the Church of Saint Vlasios, a three-aisled basilica completed in 1840 to 1841. Its construction followed the securing of official permission, with the original Ottoman firman still referenced in local tradition. The church incorporates extensive spolia, ancient architectural elements transported from the nearby site of Manna, embedding layers of earlier history within its structure. On the exterior walls, careful observation reveals marble blocks bearing visible clamp marks, relief crosses, fragments of columns and sanctuary screens, and a triglyph-carved stone integrated into the masonry. A distinctive mason’s mark carved in red stone, a letter T within a star, remains one of its most intriguing details. Inside, the church preserves post-Byzantine iconography and maintains its traditional decorative atmosphere, offering a rare continuity of devotional art and craftsmanship.

The feast of Saint Vlasios is celebrated each year on February 11. On this day, the village gathers and the ceremonial dish keskek, prepared with meat and wheat, is traditionally cooked and shared.

Behind the main church, down a small set of steps, survives the modest earlier chapel that once served the community before the current basilica was built. It stands as a quiet reminder of the village’s earlier phase.

Just northwest of the village lies Manna, believed to have been an ancient spring sanctuary. Archaeological remains in the area include large worked stone blocks, temple-like structural remnants, and early Christian marble fragments. For centuries, Manna appears to have functioned both as a vital water source and as a sacred place. Much of its material history continues to live on in the walls of Saint Vlasios, physically connecting antiquity with the nineteenth century.

In the nearby area known as Vigli, from the Latin vigla meaning watchtower, traces of a medieval defensive structure have been recorded. This likely formed part of a signaling network protecting the Gulf of Gera during the Genoese Gattilusi or early Ottoman periods. From this vantage point, the “Little Sea,” the Gulf of Gera, opens quietly below, emphasizing the strategic as well as the aesthetic value of the landscape.

Landscape & Environment

Plakados is surrounded by the vast Gera olive grove, one of the most extensive continuous olive landscapes in the Mediterranean.

Citrus trees and wild herbs fill the valleys, while streams cut through shaded ravines. The nearby Gulf of Gera, part of the Natura 2000 network, supports important birdlife and reinforces the ecological value of the area.

The natural setting defines the village’s identity. Plakados remains rural, calm, and deeply connected to both land and water, offering a living example of how landscape, history, and community shape one another over time.

What to do & see in Plakados

• Visit the Church of Saint Vlasios – Observe the embedded ancient marble elements
• Explore the Manna site (nearby) – Discover traces of the ancient sanctuary
• Walk through the old stone entrance and bridge – Traditional village access
• Rest at the shaded square and fountain – Especially refreshing in summer
• Follow the olive grove path to Papados – A 15–20 minute scenic walk with views of the Gulf

Palaiokipos Travel Tips

• How long to stay: 2–3 hours
• Best combined with: Papados, Perama, Palaiokipos
• Best for: History enthusiasts, architecture lovers, walking routes, quiet exploration
• Best time to visit: Late afternoon in summer (for the cool square) or February 11 (village feast)